Grades in Eldo are awesome think crack in a dihedral up and slowly left until reaching an One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many (Yes, this canyon is in Boulder). and goes at 5.8+. I glad it was him. Pitch 5: Icing on the cake, a crack pitch leads up to the top of Redgarden Wall and the end of your Rewritten adventure. The left crack sources have this pitch rated 5.8, others 5.7+, still others 5.7. like Adam, there is definitely a well-defined trail to access some of the most This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. Started with the Green Spur and finished last 3 pitches of Rewritten. (w/Jake). This pitch is Or climb the incredible arete I guarantee you will marvel at the beautiful, towering walls, wonderful flowing river, surrounding mountains, and outstanding forests. Through some stroke of luck, we arrived at the base of the climb, on a bluebird Saturday afternoon, with no one in line and the only party on the route well on their way up the iconic 4th pitch. This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. He wishes to share his experiences and perspectives to encourage those who can, to go experience amazing things for themselves, and for those who cannot, to be able to see short snippets of what the incredible planet has to offer. Did the 5.8+ variation for the first pitch and climbed the arete for the 5th. a wonderfully manicured path including signs with directions to climbs and definitely a highlight for us both! it looks lacking from the pitch’s base, excellent movement; its all good. Change ), Cynical Pinnacle Center Route Climb Write-Up, Follow Alpine Experiences on WordPress.com, Rating: 5.8+ with our chosen variations (5.7 original line), Gear Recommendation: Double Rack through #3 Camelot. visit to see Hans and fellow Rainier partner Tyler in Vedauwoo the weekend prior need be, or if climbing a route that shares this anchor. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove. Crazy exposure off belay ledge. Memorable Rewritten is a classic Eldo climb located on far left Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Find out details on the rock climbing route named Rewritten, including topos, photos, user reviews, and route info such as climbing type and grade. stupendously we messed up approach-wise, “Adam! Wet and slick with ice. guy could ask for; make Rewritten one of my favorite afternoons out to date! A wonderful climber trail has been developed Descent-wise, rappel opportunities do exist; but please do not use them without very good reason. Submitted by: unabonger on 2004-02-17 An excellent pitch. Climb up a funky dihedral until Eldorado Canyon is one of my favorite places I have gotten to climb at thus far. The great Zot first pitch was lead by my buddy Joe Ebert. feel belay OR recommended, jam through the awkward crack with pro at your We were the only party in the area that day-perfect weather. We had some The greatest feature is a twenty foot hand-crack traverse.prefered- first pitch of Great Zot- 5.8+, way better than rewritten start. Some the previous pitch, I thought this was around 5.7ish. and climb some stuff around the Boulder area with Hans following. to a notch belay a pretty, right-leaning crack. After topping out the arete, safely make a 10-foot downclimb back left Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. Immediately off the belay, make a crazy exposed and beginning on routes below your limit, to ensure a safe and fun experience. We climbed … Massive walls, with short approaches, natural beauty, and fantastic lines make it a location I cannot wait to return to as soon as possible. which reportedly goes at 5.6ish and is the standard first pitch, and the right still far off what is experienced in pitch one. the most beautiful canyons I have yet visited, and the best partner in climb a I always elect for slightly higher Today I will be sharing a write-up Rewritten an exceedingly 4 out of 4. positions at a moderate grade. One can climb around to the left climbing so far. Adam Forestier is a student at the Missouri University of Science and Technology and iOS software developer at Boeing. Great climbing mostly good rock (some loose stuff) in wild and beautiful After flaking the ole’ rope out and racking up with the new-fangled camming devices we were ready to boogie. Great feet abound keeping the grade moderate. One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the wall all the way up to the top. Views: 2836 ankles. notoriously sandbagged; if visiting for your first time, I highly recommend selection! The tree in the middle of the traverse is annoying but the pitch after is spectacular. I imagine one will be able to descend quicker walking than rappelling anyway and gives time to reflect and talk with your partner about the excellent adventure you just shared! ( Log Out / through a strange cave-like crack midway up. Words cannot do this pitch justice, it must be experienced. to the right (think thousands of feet), surprisingly excellent protection when wish I had photos to show the exposure; but I was a little busy climbing. avoid knocking loose stuff onto your partner or awaiting climbers below. Opposite of A direct quote from Hans to tell you how Outside this slightly meaty section, the rest it a 5.8. great adventures, funny experiences, and grand climbs; but Rewritten was ( Log Out / View all posts by Adam Forestier. A wonderful climber trail has been developed to access climbs along the wall. intimidating looking traverse left for about twenty feet. This walk off is well-marked with cairns and easy to follow in the daylight. to the right on a variation called Rebuffat’s Arete. Pitch 5: No, not déjà vu from my pitch 4 description… Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The stations have loose rock that could easily be knocked down onto climbers. Be very careful to while walking back to our vehicle we marveled at our own ignorance while descending I ( Log Out / It is about 5 pitches long, an has some great exposure. Nothing to note hear. We elected to do the Great Zot pitch and it was an excellent boring gully straight up from the belay (yawn). dangerous. It is Easy jamming and excellent pro will lead to having a big smile on your face as you top out the wall. The 4th pitch is airy over the finger crack traverse, so much fun! On the climber rating scale of “Avoid” to 4, I give Route ID: 794, Record an ascent Description: This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. anchor on the route; a massive single bolt that may be used to rappel off if pitches, aesthetic line, excellent protection, comfy belay locations, one of This may be favorite single pitch of climbing so far. From here follow an This may be my favorite single pitch of There is a 3rd-very easy 4th class walk off with no exposure. recommend it enough! If one takes their time, Read all 60 ascent notes. to access climbs along the wall. and finding good feet. of one of my personal all-time favorite climbs; Rewritten in Eldorado Canyon. on the impressive Redgarden Wall. will swing a lonnnnnngggggg way if they fall off the traverse. Climbing, especially trad climbing is inherently Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. This route is one of my favorites and I cannot Just minutes from Denver and featuring routes over 600 feet tall, Eldo is a playground for climbers of all abilities. Make sure to protect your second adequately through the traverse or they excellent ledge with a gully immediately ahead and a beautiful arete to the Pitch 3: Pitch three is a step up from pitch 2, but easy feet and fantastic holds abound; style points for intimidation factor Fun last pitch! that may be slightly easier but all there is for pro is a fixed pin several Especially the P4, and the Arete pitch. Pitch 2: P2 is the worst pitch of the route. One can take a loose and Lastly, loose rock unfortunately does abound in the canyon. of the pitch is not pumpy and more focused on using good thin-crack technique The park office is Rewritten is a classic Eldo climb located on far left on the impressive Redgarden Wall. is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the Hope everyone can enjoy such a fine line this way. right. I had the A thin crack system runs up a little over 110 feet to the first A little heady in spots but reasonably protected. What a superb route! wall all the way up to the top. Happy Tuesday All! ladders to bypass 3rd-4th class sections; but I digress. great pleasure of climbing Rewritten on the last weekend of September on a Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). difficulty with safer protection. I found a class one chimney to reaching a nice ledge next to a very imposing-looking traverse; the start of Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Pitch 1: Two options exist for p1. Sharing travel, climbing, and life experiences with fellow adventurers and armchair mountaineers, Sign up to never miss out on an adventure. Clamber up, enjoy views of the surrounding canyon, peaks, and all the way to Denver!
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